Cave Cricket 2025: Discover the Mysterious Insect Hiding in Your Basement

For many people, spotting a Cave Cricket in their basement can be startling. These odd, hump-backed insects (also called camel crickets or spider crickets) are wingless and have long spindly legs. Although their appearance may seem threatening, cave crickets pose no direct harm to humans.

For first-time finders, the initial surprise can be strong, but remember: cave crickets are more annoying than dangerous. By learning about their habits and biology below, you can safely remove them and prevent future visits. In this guide, we explain how to recognize Cave Crickets, why they sometimes invade basements, and how to manage them effectively. We’ll share practical tips to make your basement less inviting to these pests and ensure you can handle any cave cricket visitor with confidence.

Key Facts at a Glance:
– Wingless, hump-backed insects common in damp basements (often called camel or spider crickets).
– Nocturnal scavengers: they feed on fungi, decaying matter, and sometimes fabrics.
– Harmless to people and pets: they do not bite, sting, or carry disease.
– Infestations usually indicate too much moisture; controlling humidity is key.
– Prevention includes dehumidifiers, sealing entry points, and traps (sticky or soapy water).

What Is a Cave Cricket?

A cave cricket is an insect in the family Rhaphidophoridae. The name comes from their camel-like hump on the thorax. Although they are called “cave” crickets, many species live under stones, in forests, or in basements. They belong to the order Orthoptera (the same group as grasshoppers and katydids), but unlike most orthopterans, they have no wings and make no sound. In fact, field crickets (family Gryllidae) are their distant relatives, but cave crickets lack the sound-producing organs that make field crickets chirp.

Cave crickets occur nearly worldwide (except the poles). North America has both native species and introduced ones. One notable example is the greenhouse camel cricket (Tachycines asynamorus) from Asia. It has now spread to many U.S. states via imported plants. A 2014 study even estimated around 700 million greenhouse camel crickets in the eastern U.S. alone. In fact, about 90% of U.S. homeowners who reported cave cricket sightings found this invasive species in their basements.

In short, Cave Crickets are extremely common in suitable habitats. They have adapted to dark, damp places, whether a natural cave or a moist basement. (Note: Their family name Rhaphidophoridae loosely means “needle-footed” in Greek, a reference to their long legs.) Because they reproduce slowly indoors, populations build up gradually over months if left unchecked.

Identification: What Does a Cave Cricket Look Like?

Cave crickets have a very distinctive appearance. Adults typically measure ½ to 1½ inches long (13–33 mm) excluding legs, but their powerful hind legs can make them appear much larger when extended. Their color ranges from tan or light brown to dark brown, often with mottled or banded patterns. Key identifying features include:

• Hump-backed body: The thorax arches upward sharply, giving a “humped” profile (hence camel cricket). This is the fastest way to tell them apart from other crickets.
• Long, enlarged hind legs: The hind femurs (thigh segments) are very thick and drumstick-shaped. These legs are used for jumping. If you gently touch a cricket and it springs upward, that’s a hallmark of cave crickets.
• Very long antennae: Their antennae are thread-like and often much longer than their body. They use these feeler-like appendages to navigate in darkness, since their eyes are quite small.
• Wingless: Unlike field crickets and katydids, cave crickets have no wings or wing covers. They also lack hearing organs (tympana). This means cave crickets cannot chirp; they are completely silent.
• Size and posture: When at rest, they often sit with their legs folded under and body leaning forward. Including legs, a full-grown cave cricket can span 2–3 inches. The overall shape is more elongated and vertical than the stout body of a field cricket.

Figure: A cave cricket (also known as a camel cricket or spider cricket) in its natural habitat. Note the pronounced humpback, absence of wings, and very long hind legs.

In normal lighting, cave crickets appear brownish, but in dark basements they can seem almost black. They move in a jerky fashion: if disturbed, they will quickly hop away and often climb walls or ceilings. Fortunately, their jumping is purely defensive – they do not pursue or bite you. If you’ve ever startled a cave cricket with a flashlight, you’ve seen how they vault or climb to safety. These crickets are not aggressive; they just flee when cornered.

Habitat and Behavior

Cave crickets are nocturnal and thrive in cool, humid, and dark places. Typical habitats include:

• Caves and crevices: True to their name, many species live in natural caves or rocky underground cavities in forests. They hide under rocks, logs, and leaf litter during the day.
• Basements and crawl spaces: In homes, they show up in damp basements, cellars, laundry rooms, or crawl spaces. Any underground or semi-underground room that stays cool and moist can attract them. Cracks in foundation walls or gaps under doors are common entry points.
• Woodpiles and debris: Piles of firewood, lumber, or boxes against the house are favorite outdoor hideouts. Crickets under these piles often wander into the basement through nearby openings. In fact, removing or relocating woodpiles and stacked materials (at least 20 feet from the foundation) can significantly reduce visits.
• Greenhouses and garages: The greenhouse camel cricket in particular is often found in plant greenhouses or humid garages. These structures mimic the warm, moist conditions of caves.
• Hidden indoors: Indoors, you might find them behind laundry baskets, under sinks, or behind furniture. Warm appliances (like a fridge or furnace) create pockets of humidity that attract crickets. Anywhere warm yet damp – such as the corner behind a water heater – can harbor them. NC State Extension notes crawlspaces, basements, bathrooms, and laundry areas are commonly invaded.

During the daytime, cave crickets hide in these dark niches. At night, they emerge to forage. They have very poor eyesight, so they rely on touch and smell. You’ll often find them scuttling along walls or ceilings under the cover of darkness. They rarely venture into well-lit rooms; if you turn on a light, the crickets scurry back to shadows. Their keen antennae guide them through total darkness.

Behaviorally, cave crickets do not form organized colonies – they are mostly solitary. If you see several in one area, it’s because conditions suit them (not because of cooperative behavior). They use jumping as a primary defense. If you startle one, it will hop to another spot. Occasionally, a cave cricket will remain motionless (playing dead) until it feels safe.

Experts note that cave crickets often overwinter in sheltered places. In cooler climates, some may survive indoors through winter as nymphs or adults. NC State Extension explains that in early spring, females lay eggs in soil and nymphs hatch a few weeks later. The nymphs resemble small adults and molt several times over summer. Thus, seeing a mix of small and large crickets can indicate an ongoing breeding cycle in a damp basement. However, in most homes the environment isn’t ideal for long-term breeding – usually only one generation per year occurs.

Diet: What Do Cave Crickets Eat?

Cave crickets are detritivores and opportunistic feeders. They will eat almost anything organic they come across:

• Fungi and mildew: They particularly favor damp, moldy matter. This includes rotten wood, mildew on cardboard or fabrics, and decomposing leaves. If your basement has moldy cardboard, soggy books, or damp wood, it’s a feast for cave crickets. They essentially consume the mold and fungus.
• Plant debris: Dead leaves, grass clippings, wood shavings, or insulation debris are on the menu. Outdoors they clean up leaf litter; indoors, they may chew through dead plant stems or paper products.
• Dead insects and organic waste: They will scavenge on dead bugs or animal matter. Around pets, spilled dog/cat food can attract them, and they may nibble droppings or decaying fruit if available. (Orkin notes they will eat “animal products” and fabrics among other items.)
• Household fabrics: In the absence of better food, cave crickets will chew on natural fibers. They prefer cotton, wool, leather, and paper. You might find irregular holes or frayed edges on stored clothes, curtains, or old linen in the basement. This is similar damage to what silverfish or clothes moths cause, but cave crickets only do it when absolutely needed (they prefer fungi).
• Cannibalism (rare): In very crowded conditions, some cave crickets have been observed nibbling injured or dead crickets. This is not normal behavior but can occur if populations get too high and food is scarce.

In practice, their eating habits mostly help decompose waste rather than cause real harm. They are not like termites or carpenter ants – cave crickets cannot bore through wood or structures. They mostly nibble items that are already decaying or accidental (like holes in the corner of a shirt left on the basement floor).

A few sources note that cave crickets can even contribute to spreading spores. When they crawl through moldy areas and then into caves or clean basements, they inadvertently carry fungal spores inside, feeding bats or cave microbes. Thus, ironically, these pests also play an ecological role in nutrient cycles. But in your home, the main “damage” you’ll notice is holes in a few fabrics or leaky boxes, and the presence of moldy debris they have eaten.

Cave Crickets vs Other Crickets

People often confuse cave crickets with other similar insects. Here’s how to tell them apart:

• Field Crickets (Gryllus spp.): Field crickets are the typical black crickets heard chirping in backyards. They have wings and ear-like organs on their legs, which they use to chirp. If you hear a cricket in summer, it’s almost certainly a field cricket, not a cave cricket. Field crickets have a more cylindrical body shape and proportionally shorter hind legs (Orthoptera generally have “cylindrical bodies and elongated hindlegs”). Cave crickets, by contrast, have the pronounced thoracic hump and no wings. Field crickets prefer dry, open areas and usually only enter homes in summer; cave crickets prefer very damp, enclosed spaces.
• Camel/Spider Crickets: These names all refer to cave crickets (same family Rhaphidophoridae). In the U.S., “camel cricket” and “cave cricket” are interchangeable. “Spider cricket” is a nickname because of their long legs. There is no difference in type of insect – it’s just a naming difference.
• House Crickets (Acheta domesticus): House crickets are light brown with dark markings and chirp. They have visible wings on males. They also prefer warm areas (not damp basements) like kitchens. If you find a tan or pale cricket on a kitchen floor in summer, it’s likely a house cricket, not a camel/cricket.
• Jerusalem Crickets (Potato Bugs): These large, flightless insects have a big round head and bold body markings. They have short legs (no jumping). Caveman crickets, in contrast, have very long hind legs and no distinctive banding.
• Katydids and Grasshoppers: These are green or brown, winged, and active during the day. Katydids look like leaves and make chirping noises. Cave crickets are all brown, wingless, and nocturnal – no confusion there.

In summary, if your mystery bug has a hump, long legs, and no wings, it’s a cave cricket. Other cave-dwelling insects like silverfish or cockroaches look completely different (silverfish are small, carrot-shaped, and move side-to-side; roaches are broad-bodied and scuttle flat). Cave crickets are unique in appearance, so once you know what to look for, they’re hard to mistake.

Are Cave Crickets Dangerous to People or Pets?

No. Cave crickets are completely harmless to humans and pets. They have no venom, no stinger, and do not carry any diseases. A few points to reassure you:

• Bites: Cave crickets can bite if roughly handled, but their jaws are not strong. Any “bite” you might feel is more of a pinch, and it rarely breaks skin or causes pain. They do not seek out people or pets to bite. Bites are so rare and mild that they’re not considered medically significant.
• Poison: They are not poisonous or venomous in any way. Touching one or accidentally eating one (yuck!) will not poison you. They don’t have toxins like a snake or spider.
• Diseases and allergens: Unlike cockroaches or rodents, cave crickets are not known to spread pathogens. They don’t harbor fleas or tick. People who are very allergic to insect droppings might notice a sneeze if a lot of cricket dust is around, but this is extremely uncommon. Generally, they do not trigger allergies as some other pests might.
• Property damage: Cave crickets’ “damage” is limited to chewing a few clothes or cardboard. They will not eat structural materials, wooden beams, electrical wiring, or food packaging. You won’t find them boring holes in your walls. They only nibble soft, natural fibers or decayed items.

Even major pest control authorities state camel/cave crickets are “harmless” and of no real economic concern for homes. Orkin lists them as merely a nuisance pest. In other words, the only real impact they have on people is startling you when they jump or possibly leaving small fecal specks behind (see signs below). There is no health risk in letting them hop out or even squishing a few.

In conclusion: you do not have to worry about any bites, venom, or disease from cave crickets. Your main concern is keeping them out of sight and preventing damage to stored fabrics. The good news is the steps that deter cave crickets (reducing moisture, traps, cleaning) will also keep your home generally safer and healthier.

Signs of a Cave Cricket Infestation

How can you tell if cave crickets have become an ongoing problem? Watch for these clues:

• Frequent sightings: Seeing one or two cave crickets occasionally might just be a random wanderer. But if you spot several in one night, or find them consistently each week, it suggests a local population. They often appear suddenly; for example, turning on a basement light and seeing multiple crickets hop away is a clear sign.
• Droppings (fecal pellets): A heavy infestation often leaves dark droppings. NC State Extension notes that cave cricket feces look like small dark specks or smears on floor joists, shelves, or walls. If you see tiny black spots along a beam or along baseboards, that could be cricket poop. It can resemble mouse droppings but is usually smaller (about the size of coarse pepper grains).
• Damage to stored items: Check fabrics and papers in the basement. Cave crickets chewing can create irregular holes or frayed edges on cotton clothes, wool, curtains, or cardboard boxes. Unlike moth damage, cricket holes are often ragged. If you pull out a box of linens and find tiny holes or nibble marks that weren’t there before, suspect insects. Also look for chew marks on cardboard and book covers.
• Egg casings or nymphs: On rare occasions, you might find clusters of tiny white oval eggs (a few millimeters long) in soil or cracks, or see very small tan crickets (nymphs) hopping around. This indicates breeding is occurring indoors. Most infestations involve adult wanderers, but if conditions are damp enough, they may lay eggs.
• General dampness: Often, cave cricket presence coincides with other moisture issues. If your basement has visible mold, musty odors, or damp walls, that environment is ideal for them. Fixing leaks or installing a dehumidifier usually reduces cricket numbers dramatically.

If you suspect an infestation, place glue traps in corners or near walls overnight. Check any dark, unused boxes or beneath appliances for crickets. The NC State extension even recommends using sticky traps in crawlspaces as a monitoring tool. Remember: seeing crickets at all means your home provides what they need (moisture and shelter). Finding them often just means it’s time for remediation (see below).

How to Get Rid of Cave Crickets and Prevent Them

Eliminating cave crickets involves reducing moisture and removing habitat, along with trapping. Here are the most effective strategies:

1. Reduce Humidity: This is the single most important step. Use a dehumidifier in damp areas to bring humidity below 50%. Fix any leaks, cracks, or drainage issues that allow water in. Ensure the basement is well-ventilated – you might install a crawl-space vent or run an exhaust fan in a windowless bathroom. When the space is dry and cool, cave crickets have no reason to stay.
2. Seal Entry Points: Inspect foundation walls, cracks in the slab, gaps around pipes, vents, and window wells. Use caulk, spray foam, or weatherstripping to seal any openings larger than 1/8 inch. Install or repair screens on vents and cover floor drains. This prevents outdoor crickets from sneaking in. Remember to weather-strip the basement door and check the sill plate for gaps.
3. Clean and Declutter: Remove piles of cardboard, old newspapers, and clutter from the floor. Store fabrics and papers off the ground in plastic bins. Reducing clutter both removes hiding places and improves airflow. Even shifting storage a few inches away from walls can make a difference. A clean, airy basement is much less attractive to cave crickets (and to mold and other pests).
4. Sticky Traps and Baits: Place glue traps (sticky boards) along baseboards, in corners, or under sinks. Spread a bit of flour or bait in the trap to attract crickets. Traps will catch crickets as they roam. Also try shallow pans of water with a drop of dish soap near a wall: crickets seeking moisture will fall in and drown as the soap breaks the water’s surface tension. Check and replace traps regularly.
5. Vacuum Regularly: Use a vacuum cleaner in corners, under appliances, and along walls – especially at night when crickets are most active. Vacuuming physically removes crickets and their eggs. A wet/dry shop vacuum is ideal: immediately empty or dispose of the contents outside so crickets don’t crawl back out.
6. Address Landscape Drainage: Keep soil around the foundation dry. Ensure gutters and downspouts carry water at least 10 feet away from the house. Grade the yard so water slopes away from the foundation. Any standing moisture at the perimeter will draw cave crickets (and other pests) to the edges of your basement.
7. Natural Repellents (Optional): There’s no magic spray, but some people try sprinkling diatomaceous earth (food-grade) along cracks. This fine powder dehydrates insects on contact. You can also place sachets of cedar or peppermint oil-infused cotton near foundation cracks, though results vary. Ultimately, the dryness itself repels crickets.
8. Repeat and Monitor: Even after treatment, keep traps out for a month or two as insurance. Check corners periodically. If new crickets appear after rain or spring, recheck for moisture. Most homes only get cave cricket visits seasonally. Continuous breeding indoors is rare if conditions are dry.

Quick Checklist for Prevention:
1. Run a dehumidifier in any damp areas.
2. Use fans or vents to improve air circulation.
3. Seal cracks and gaps around foundation, walls, and pipes.
4. Remove clutter and store belongings in sealed bins.
5. Place sticky traps or soapy water traps in dark corners.
6. Vacuum floors and corners frequently.
7. Check gutters and grading to keep water away from the house.

By consistently applying these measures, most households dramatically cut down or eliminate cave cricket visits. If the infestation is extremely severe (e.g. hundreds of crickets), you may consider calling a pest control service. They can apply a targeted insecticide barrier or professional-grade traps. However, remember that chemicals alone won’t fix the root problem. For example, even Orkin emphasizes that moisture control is key to preventing cave crickets. In nearly all cases, a dry, well-maintained basement will solve the issue without heavy spraying.

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

Conclusion

Cave crickets are indeed mysterious-looking insects, but they are essentially basement-friendly pests. They prefer cool, dark places and will sometimes wander into homes, especially basements and crawl spaces. Remember, these bugs do not bite or harm people or pets. The best remedy is prevention: keep your basement dry, seal openings, and use traps as needed. In practice, once moisture is under control, cave cricket sightings usually drop dramatically More Post.

If crickets are already present, the simple methods above (sticky traps, vacuuming, soapy water) will help remove them quickly. Over time, most homeowners find cave crickets become just an occasional curiosity rather than a constant problem. By following these steps, you can confidently reclaim your basement.

We hope this guide has demystified the cave cricket and provided practical solutions. If you’ve ever experienced a cave cricket encounter, please share your story or tips in the comments below – it may help others dealing with the same issue. For more pest control advice, check out our other articles or share this guide on social media. Stay vigilant and keep your home dry for a cricket-free living space!

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